Jeff Koons' "Diamond (Red)" 1994-2005 at Gagosian Gallery stand at Abu Dhabi Art

When a shiny black chauffeur-driven Mercedes arrived to whisk me to JFK, I knew I was embarking on an unusually ritzy press junket. So began my journey to Abu Dhabi, capital of the United Arab Emirates, for the new Abu Dhabi Art fair.

Towels arranged like swans at Emirates Palace ladies room

A relaxing 11-hour flight on the national airline Etihad featured rose-water scented hot towels, a pilot’s prayer in Arabic over the speaker system, an artfully presented dinner and a flat bed. Dealers from L & M Arts and Acquavella were on the same flight over. I should point out that while I didn’t pay a dime, the ticket retails for around $8,000, so this sort of travel doesn’t come cheap.

When we arrived Tuesday evening, flat humid Abu Dhabi at night reminded me of a mix of Scottsdale, with the low slung earth-hued buildings discreetly obscured by high walls, and Las Vegas’ soupy heat and glitzy hotels.

Wednesday was mainly spent at Emirates Palace, a $2 billion hotel where the 50-dealer art fair is staged. The offerings are a blend of Middle Eastern contemporary and pricey Western offerings from the likes of  White Cube (Hirst dots) and Gagosian (Koons’ bling). The fair was organized under the auspices of the Crown Prince of Abu Dhabi and the Tourism Development & Investment Company or TDIC. Befitting this mega-wealthy sponsor, the fair has no admission charge.

Pace's Marc Glimcher in Calder filled stand

Opening night featured the cameo appearance of High Highness Sheikh Hamed bin Zayed Al Nahyan, Chief of the Crown Prince’s court, who traveled en masse with an entourage of white-robed security detail and courtiers. Jeff Koons was on hand to offer a few words about his gleaming Diamond (Red). A blue version had sold at Christie’s in 2007 for $11.8m.

Dubai collector Mohammed Afkhami

A few red dots appeared on the walls, but mostly for Middle Eastern contemporary artworks priced under $20,000. Christie’s owner Francois Pinault was rumored to have bought photographs from Dubai’s B21 Gallery. Dubai collector Mohammed Afkhami pined for a reflective Anselm Reyle at Gagosian, priced $150,000, but was too late: already sold.

Acquavella's Michael Findlay beside an awkwardly positioned palm tree at the entry to the stand

PaceWildenstein President Marc Glimcher held court at his stand, featuring a solo-show of works by Alexander Calder, all owned by the artist’s heirs. Calder’s extraordinary 20-foot tall standing mobile ironically titled “Ordinary”  cost $100,000 to transport to the fair. The piece sat beach side, on offer for $45 million.

Alexander Calder's 1969 "Ordinary" priced $45m at PaceWildenstein